As we approach peak tamale-making season, it’s a treat to look back into the newspaper’s archives for guidance on how and why they are made, as well as where to purchase them.
“We’ve been making, eating and sharing tamales for centuries,” American-Statesman reporter Natalia Contreras wrote in a helpful 2021 article.
“There’s evidence of tamales originating in what is now central Mexico as early as 8,000 B.C.,” Marco Iñiguez-Alba, senior lecturer of Spanish at Texas A&M University-Kingsville, told Contreras.
Tamales were made as gifts for the Aztec gods, such as Cinteotl, the god of maize, Iñiguez-Alba said.
“A tamal became like an ofrenda, an offering to the gods. It was made and wrapped, kind of like a gift to the god,” Iñiguez-Alba said. “And so that becomes a practice of people gifting each other food.”
In Texas, the tradition grew popular outside the Tejano community during the late 19th century, when the “Chili Queens” sold their wares at booths set up in San Antonio’s plazas.
“Some families say tamales became a Christmas tradition because they were a reminder of the baby Jesus wrapped in swaddling clothes,” Contreras wrote. “But making tamales is hard work. And it takes more than one person to get the job done. That’s why it’s so popular to make them with family and friends around the holidays and during special occasions that call for a large gathering.”
“It allows for a practice also of communalism,” Iñiguez-Alba said. “The only way to make tamales is in an assembly line. It allows for information exchange. You’re narrating stories, regaining lost time, you’re catching up, you’re laughing, you’re crying.”
This exchange of information in the process of making tamales, he said, “of spreading the masa on the husk, preparing the filling the night before, all of this is key to the longevity of family.”
When this photo was taken in 2002, Amelia Vallejo Perez had been making tamales every Christmas since she was 6 years old, when she started learning from her two grandmothers.
What makes tamales good?
“That depends on your preference,” Contreras wrote. “For some, it’s the masa. For others, it’s the filling, or whether or not they were made by the loving hands of their abuelita. Some longtime Texas tamaleros told the American-Statesman that good tamales easily slide right off the husk.”
“You have to get the masa right,” said Carmen Valera, who is one of the owners of Tamale House in Austin. Valera’s family has been making tamales in the Texas capital since 1958. “The masa has to be silky and smooth. It has to be soft but not crumbly. When you open the tamale, it glistens.”
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Contreras went on to describe some regional differences among Texas tamales.
“In Central Texas, some of the tamales are ‘Texas-sized,’ which means you’ll be good ordering one for a meal,” Contreras wrote. “And the tamaleros here are going beyond the traditional pork, chicken and beef fillings. You’ll also find some that are vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free.
“Austin’s tamales staple, Tamale House, has been using the same delicious recipe since 1958. These tamales will take you back to your abuelita’s kitchen: They are handcrafted and filled with braised pork or chicken. At the restaurant (1707 E. Sixth St.), the tamales are served with a side of refried beans and rice and one will be enough to fill you up. Each individual tamale at the Tamale House weighs nearly a pound. Those who like tamales de rajas can find those here.”
In South Texas, you’ll find more traditional, smaller tamales.
“They are wrapped in corn husks and the masa is just as flavorful, colorful and savory as the favorite pork filling,” Contreras wrote. “You’ll still find some that are lard-free if you prefer your tamales a bit healthier.
“I could never get away with making a tamale list without mentioning Delia’s, a favorite of the Rio Grande Valley,” Contreras wrote. “Delia’s has been feeding us tamales since the late 1990s and it now has locations all over the RGV and in San Antonio. Oh, and if you have the misfortune of living outside of Texas, Delia’s ships their extensive traditional South Texas tamales menu nationwide.”
In 2004, this family gathered at a table to share gossip about relatives and to continue a generations-long holiday tradition of making tamales.
In West Texas, the tamales can also be big, and residents of the area enjoy a kick of spice in their green chile tamales.
People in El Paso flock to Pepe’s Tamales at 9530 Viscount Blvd. for a tamale that will take up their whole hand. Each tamale is chunky and packed with plenty of pork or chicken. At this shop, you’ll also find sweet tamales with raisins.
This article originally appeared on Austin American-Statesman: A history of the tamale and where to find good ones in Texas