After spending seven days in Tokyo, I understand the hype. It’s a world-class destination, and its people treat it as such.
I used Tokyo as my entry and exit point for Asia, flying directly from Toronto. I fell in love with the city and Japan’s culture defined by pleasantries. Neighbourhoods like Shinjuku and Shibuya felt like New York City, but as if someone hit mute on the TV; no obnoxious car honks, no one blaring Instagram Reels off their phones. Other parts like Asakusa provided that traditional feel, giving me a taste of Japan’s ancient society.
Seven days was enough to give Tokyo’s surface a good scratch, while I also had a couple day trips to Kamakura and Hakone to see Mount Fuji. Here’s what I learned along the way:
First taste of Tokyo: The subway
When it comes to Japanese etiquette, it starts on the subway. Everything runs on time; there’s no talking on your phone; and you should always use your headphones. Aside from long-distance trains, it’s uncommon to eat or drink on board, which is also the culture when walking in public.
If you dislike crowds or have tons of luggage, rush hour times are 7:30 to 9:30 a.m. and 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. That’s when you’ll see professional pushers, station officials in white gloves, tasked with getting passengers on board.
The subway — open from 5 a.m. to midnight — can take you anywhere, whether you start in Narita or the favourable Haneda Airport. However, paying for public transportation can get a bit confusing, with multiple subway companies and railway networks, which aren’t compatible for transfers.
To avoid countless trips to the ticket machines, get an IC Card. These are rechargeable and can be used almost anywhere in the Tokyo Metropolitan Area. A tourist favourite is the Welcome Suica Card.
You can also pay with IC Cards at vending machines and some shops, like convenience stores.
7-Eleven: A go-to for everything
Fried chicken is just the start to all the food you can find at the convenience stores in Japan.
Japan has a big convenience store culture, starting with the food.
It’s not just the 7-Elevens, but places like Lawson’s and Family Mart, where I got a bit too dependent on the fried chicken. The onigiris — rice triangles wrapped in seaweed, with various fillings like salmon — were my go-to for breakfast, along with canned Suntory Boss Coffees.
You can also buy alcohol; from Sapporo and Strong Zeros, to Suntory Whiskey. For a long night, try an anti-hangover drink for your liver, like the Hepalyse.
In Tokyo, it’s legal to drink on the street, but people rarely do. However, it’s illegal to smoke cigarettes in public — so you’ll need to find your spots, like designated tents.
On the streets, there are few garbage cans. You can find some at convenience stores, but it’s good to carry a plastic bag with you. Some convenience stores also have public bathrooms, where the toilet seats are heated and feature bidets.
Lastly, the convenience stores have ATM machines with low fees. Tokyo still loves its cash, so it’s good to have some YEN. For reference, ¥1,000 is about $9 CAD and $6 USD. In general, I found day-to-day life in Tokyo to be 20 per cent cheaper than Toronto.
Shinjuku: A giant playground
From good food and drinks at izakayas, to finishing the night at a batting cage, it’s easy to get lost in all the fun Shinjuku has to offer.
This is one of the busiest neighbourhoods; I was amazed by how they could fit so many cool things in such a tight downtown space. If you’re wondering where to stay in Tokyo, Shinjuku was my favourite ward.
All within a kilometer radius, I could go to:
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Bowling alleys until midnight, and then baseball batting cages until 4 a.m.
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All-you-can-drink karaoke spots with private rooms for about ¥2,000 per person. For those in Tokyo who miss their last subway home, karaoke rooms are a good place to spend the night until the subway reopens at 5 a.m.
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Golden Gai area: Home to dozens of snug bars with different themes across six alleyways. As a metal fan, I liked Deathmatch in Hell, where all drinks are ¥666. Just outside of this touristy neighbourhood, I liked Rock Bar Mother, where you can make a song request with your order.
Another cool tourist neighbourhood is Omoide-Yokocho. Like the Golden Gai is for drinks, this is for dining, with an abundance of izakayas, where you’ll indulge in meat skewers, snacks and draft beer. Just be aware of seating fees and minimum spend requirements.
Nearby, I liked Gyoza No Antei Shinjuku for their dumplings and lively atmosphere, with it being one of the many restaurants and bars where you can smoke inside. For a quick bite, Ramen Zundou-ya is a solid 24/7 spot.
Outside of these activities, Shinjuku is known for the red light district, Kabuki-Cho. You’ll see love hotels, and host and hostess clubs. To learn more about the intricate roles these clubs play in Japan’s society, I recommend a night walking tour with Tokyo Localized.
In its red-light district, Kabuki-Chom, you’ll see advertisements marking the most popular men and women for hire at its host and hostess clubs. In these non-sexual roles, they provide companionship, with host clubs being the more popular of the two. (Credit: Bryan Meler)
Asakusa: Time to relax
If you’re looking for a slower pace and a true sense of old-school Tokyo, there’s Asakusa. The neighbourhood used to be Tokyo’s entertainment district, but now it’s well-known for its shopping, food and religious sights.
To maximize the learning experience, especially at the Sensō-ji Temple, I recommend a free walking tour with Tokyo Localized.
The Sensō-ji Temple was truly impressive and helped introduce me to Buddhism.
You’ll start at the Kaminarimon, with its giant red lantern. After walking through the “Thunder Gate,” you’ll enter the bustling Nakamise Shopping Street, where there’s an abundance of traditional snacks, like ningyo-yaki, and souvenirs. Walking further will take you to the Sensō-ji, the city’s oldest and most popular temple, built in the 7th century.
You’ll want to partake in all the customs, from getting an Omikuji, which are written fortunes, to purifying the air and your body at the Jokoro, where incense burn in a large vessel. Then there’s Temizu, a purification process where you cleanse your hands and mouth before entering the main hall; a tradition that’s also commonly seen at Shinto shrines.
Outside of the religious hub, there’s tons to do. Along with the Shin-Nakamise Shopping Street, there’s the Asakusa Uniqlo, which has a unique assortment of graphic tees. If you’re looking to be a bit more traditional, Kimono Oriden has good second-hand kimonos. There’s also Asakusa Rox, a nine-story high shopping complex, and the Underground Shopping Street.
In terms of cuisine, Kappabashi Kitchen Street is where a chef could find anything, along with some decently priced Japanese ceramics. In terms of food, Ramen Hayashida’s slow-cooked chicken option was my favourite thing I ate all vacation. For tempura, I enjoyed Akimitsu, which offers traditional Japanese style seating.
Sushi-making course
As a very amateur chef, learning how to make maki and nigiri sushi was a highlight of my trip. I booked a class through Get Your Guide in the Asakusa neighbourhood, where I learned about the history of sushi, while overlooking the Sumida River and Tokyo Skytree.
When in Asakusa, you’ll often see the Tokyo Skytree and the Aashi Beer Tower and Flame. The gold tower depicts a cup filled with beer and foam, while the flame is nicknamed the “Golden Turd” over its resemblance.
Tokyo Skytree
As a devout CN Tower fan, I had to visit the Tokyo Skytree, the world’s tallest freestanding tower at 634 metres.
This felt like the most touristy part of my trip, since the viewing areas were packed. You can go early in the morning to avoid crowds, but the best time is an hour before sunset, to enjoy Tokyo’s skyline during the day and at night. On rare occasions, you can see Mount Fuji.
While it’s not as high up, if you’re looking for a free option to see the city’s skyline, you can also consider the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building in Shinjuku.
Onsen
Without much nightlife in Asakusa, it’s a great chance to recharge in an onsen, which are traditional bath houses with water from hot springs. I went to ROX Matrsui-yu Spa, and felt like a million bucks the next day.
Be aware that many onsens don’t allow guests with tattoos due to Yakuza and other gang-related concerns. Also to participate, you’ll need to be fully naked, making it feel like a right of passage in Japan.
Learning about the history of Japan and Tokyo
For a solid introduction to the history of Japan and its capital, I joined the Original Free Walking Tour Of Tokyo. It starts in Akihabara and goes through Ameyoko, two areas with a rich post-World War II history as former black-markets.
The tour passes through the Kanda Myojin, a popular shrine built in 730 A.D., before it goes to Ueno Park and Yushima Seido, known as a former school for Tokugawa officials — essentially making it a samurai university.
In terms of history, I learned the Japanese were held under isolation for almost 300 years during the Edo period (1603-1868). It was in an effort to block Western influence, as they were run by the Tokugawa shogunate. In present-day Japan, samurai influence continues, like walking on the left side of the street, a custom implemented to avoid samurai swords clashing together.
Akihabara: Electric Town
Pac-Man is definitely tougher in Japan than in Canada. (Credit: Sean Duffey)
If you’re into anime, manga and video games, Akihabara is an oasis, known as the centre of Japan’s otaku culture and electronic stores. Even if these aren’t your biggest interests, the neighbourhood is other-world-like.
A highlight was exploring arcade towers like GiGo and Hey, where you’ll find video games of all types spanned across multiple floors.
The neighbourhood also boasts a mix of small shops where you can buy vintage items. As a souvenir, I bought a Blue-Eyes White Dragon Yu-Gi-Oh! card.
Akihabara is also a great introduction into “kawaii,” a cultural phenomenon in Japan that emphasizes cuteness. To get started, a custom is flashing the peace sign in all your photos.
Shibuya: A younger crowd
It doesn’t get busier than at the Shibuya Crossing, but even here you’ll notice the peace and quiet that is maintained across all of Tokyo.
A busy Tokyo ward, it’s known for its fashion, entertainment and vibrant nightlife.
Shibuya has tons of trendy shops, like on Takeshita Street, where you’ll see people dress as anime characters. If you’re into classic games, there’s also Nintendo Tokyo and the Pokemon Center in the Shibuya Parco building.
As a Tokyo Drift fan, I had to go to the Shibuya Scramble Crossing, the world’s busiest pedestrian intersection. If you want peak scramble, go during rush hour. Another tourist spot beside the crossing is the Hachikō Memorial Statue, honouring the most loyal dog in Japan’s history.
To contrast the hustle and bustle, there’s the Meiji Jingu, a Shinto shrine that sits in a lovely forested area, as well as Yoyogi Park, a popular spot for cherry blossoms.
If you’re trying to choose between Shibuya and Shinjuku for the nightlife, the former is suited more to a younger crowd that prefers clubs, while the latter is more bar-centric.
Kamakura: A day-trip worth taking
The Great Buddha is simply grand and majestic.
If you don’t go to Kyoto, Kamakura is a nice alternative for a day-trip, since it’s about an hour away from Tokyo. The birthplace of Japan’s first military government, the Kamakura Bakufu, this city is rich with history and beautiful temples and shrines. My highlights include:
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Kotoku-in Temple (Great Buddha): Standing at 11.4 metres, this may be my new favourite statue.
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Kuzuharaoka Daibutsu Hiking Trail: Kamakura has a few trails; this one takes you to a popular viewpoint of the city and shoreline.
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Zeniarai Benten Shrine: People come here to wash their money, with the belief that it will double.
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Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine: The city’s most important Shinto shrine, it was founded by Minamoto Yoritomo, the first shogun of the Kamakura government. From its initial Torii gate, to the koi ponds and its Main Hall perched on a hill, it’s quite impressive.
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Hokokuji Temple: It hosts a bamboo grove that attracts tons of tourists. I found it nice, but it was my least favourite site of the day.
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Shichirigahama Beach: Kamakura is a popular beach town. I went for the sunset hoping to catch Mount Fuji, but had no luck because of the clouds.
In terms of getting around, Kamakura has a solid bus and train system, which accepts IC Cards. If you feel like your boots are made for walking, you can do that too (and likely regret it the next day).
Hakone: The perfect ending
To make the most of my viewing area, I stopped by the 7-Eleven down the road to grab some sushi, Sapporo and coffee. It made for a great end to my trip, as I took in Mount Fuji, Lake Ashi and the Hakone Shrine in the distance.
It was my last day in Tokyo and my three-week vacation in Asia. After taking my sweet time in the morning, wrestling with the thought of a day-trip, I knew I had to try my luck once again; it was my turn to see Mount Fuji.
Hakone is one of the most popular places to do that, and after a 2.5-hour commute to Lake Ashi, I got lucky and witnessed The Fujemaister. For a nice view, I went on the roof of Hakone’s Branch Office.
Since I was in a pinch, I didn’t get enough time to see all of Hakone, a popular hot springs town with activities from seeing the Owakudani crater and its black eggs, to the Hakone ropeway. In my 4 hours there, it struck me as a nice weekend vacation spot, one that I’ll have to come back to.
In essence, my biggest takeaway is that I have so much to look forward to when I ultimately book another trip to Japan. I want to organize a ski trip to Sapporo, learn more about samurai culture in Kyoto, and continue to get lost in the streets of Tokyo, which may be my new favourite city.
Without a doubt, I’ll also one day be back to climb Mount Fuji.